Lebanese Winemakers Struggle Amid Ongoing Conflict
As hostilities intensify between Israel and Hezbollah, Lebanon's historic wine industry faces unprecedented challenges.
In September, Elias Maalouf was at Chateau Rayak, his family's winery in the Bekaa Valley, Lebanon, when a nearby Israeli airstrike destroyed much of the facility.
Fortunately, he and his father had just left for lunch; otherwise, they would have perished in the blast.
Months later, the winery remains damaged, as a repair team works on restoring the space where shrapnel pierced furniture, and shattered glass scattered across the floor.
Maalouf's losses include approximately 40,000 bottles of wine and significant financial damages totalling £158,600.
The violence in Lebanon escalated on October 8, 2023, when Hezbollah launched missiles into Israel following an attack on October 7 by Hamas, leading to increased Israeli military retaliation.
The escalating conflict has resulted in over 3,900 deaths in Lebanon, displacing more than 1 million residents, and incurring extensive destruction, particularly in the southern regions, the Bekaa Valley, and Beirut.
Historically, Lebanon's wine industry is one of the oldest in the world, producing around 7 million bottles annually, including the renowned Chateau Musar.
However, the industry primarily relies on tourism, with many boutique vineyards relying on visitors and events for sustenance.
Many winemakers, including Maalouf, find themselves in a dire situation without assurance of compensation from Hezbollah for losses incurred during the conflict.
Maalouf's vineyard has endured previous interruptions due to war, including the Lebanese civil war that lasted 15 years.
Despite these challenges, he remains determined to continue the family tradition of winemaking, stating, “I’m here to stay.” In the same region, Roland Abou-Khater, who operates Coteaux du Liban, took similar risks during the conflict, using a white flag on his vehicle to signal that he posed no threat while harvesting grapes amidst bombings.
He transports grapes with minimal exposure to aerial reconnaissance, reflecting methods learned from past conflicts.
Although both Maalouf and Abou-Khater strive to maintain production, they have faced losses, with Abou-Khater losing roughly 30 tons of grapes during the conflict.
The difficulties also include sourcing corks needed for bottling, as air travel to Lebanon halted, limiting shipments.
Environmental damage has also been severe; approximately 2,192 hectares (5,414 acres) of vineyards were reportedly destroyed by munitions in southern Lebanon, with fears that the use of toxic munitions, such as white phosphorus, will have lasting consequences on both public health and agriculture.
Carol Tayyar Khoury and her husband, operating Les Vignes du Marje vineyard near the volatile Lebanese border, opted not to use grapes from their affected plot due to concerns over contamination.
They undertook the laborious task of carefully transporting wine to a safer location, requiring slow movement through dangerous territories to prevent spoilage.
Despite the adverse conditions, some grapevines and wineries are beginning to recover as the ceasefire, intermittently holding since November, brings a glimmer of hope for the future of the wine industry in Lebanon.
Maalouf is already planning his next wine release in tribute to the resilience of his craft and family history.
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